Some skin-care companies sell phytoestrogen cream to apply topically to the face to improve elasticity of the skin. Is there any evidence that this really works in perimenopausal women?
—Hopefully skeptical
The drop in estrogen levels that women experience during the perimenopausal transition affects our bodies in numerous ways. Low estrogen levels lead to a loss of elasticity in the skin, a decrease in the collagen thickness and collagen content of skin, and a loss of moisture. This leads to dryness, sagging, and wrinkles — things many of us are not excited about.
Topical estrogen has been shown to improve skin texture and elasticity, but estrogen skin creams are not widely available and would require the careful supervision of a dermatologist. Phytoestrogens are estrogen-like compounds found in plants that have long been studied as alternatives to estrogen. Because they are less powerful than estrogen, they are widely available as supplements and ingredients in cosmetics. But are they effective?
The review linked above looked at the evidence regarding eight different phytoestrogens on three key components of aging in skin: collagen content and quality, water content, and oxidative stress. The compounds included in the review were genistein aglycone, daidzein, coumestrol, soy cream, and equol — all derived from soybeans — resveratrol from grapes, red clover isoflavones, and labisia pumila extract.
Different phytoestrogens had different effects on each of the aspects of skin aging measure. All showed improvement in at least one area. While all the compounds showed some benefits, the article did not provide details on how each of the phytoestrogens was given and in what concentrations.
A second study looks specifically at a single phytoestrogen — equol — applied topically. The study of 58 patients found that topical equol improved skin firmness and elasticity after eight weeks of use.
This all seems pretty promising. Is there a catch? Yes. Cosmetic creams available without a prescription are not well regulated. Based on labels, it can often be difficult to know what phytoestrogen is in the cream in question and in what concentration. And even if the label is explicit, the quality of the product inside the package may vary.
The bottom line: Phytoestrogens do seem to improve skin elasticity, hydration, and collagen strength and content in a lab setting, but it is difficult to know if commercially available cosmetics contain the same phytoestrogens in the same concentrations as those used in clinical trials.
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